Les Petits Mots de la Pleyeuse: Breisach am Rhein, DE

St. Stephan's Cathedral

Often the focus of German and European politics, the history of the 'mother town of Breisgau' dates back over 4000 years.

Since the early Stone Age people have settled on the plateau which is today the Cathedral hill. During the Celtic age this used to be the residence of a prince, who held trade connections to the Mediterranean.

The Romans also discovered the hill's strategic meaning and built a fort on which emperor Valentinian I on the 30. August 369 dismissed an edict, which Breisach owes its first documentary reference to as 'brisiacus' (which means "water breaker" in Celtic).

Part of the wall around the "Old Town"

Around 400 the fort was conquered by the Alemanni and in the following centuries Breisach emerged as one of the most important towns on the Upper Rhine.

In 1273 Breisach became a free imperial town. This was the base for its boom years and political importance. Several convents were established that were beside the St. Stephan's Cathedral -which was built in the 12th to 15th century- the religious and cultural centre of the aspiring community, which had belong to Austria since 131.

The door to Breisach

The Rhine used to reach the door of Breisach, but now there is a bridge

In 1500 during the regime of Emperor Maximilian I. trade was developed and Breisach became an industry town, one of the strongest forts in Europe.

The Town Hall in 1536

A painting of Bresiach in the 1500's (click on photo to enlarge)

Town Hall 2009

In the Thirty Year's War, duke Bernhard von Weimar in 1638 captured Breisach only through leaguer and famishment that lasted for months. After his death in 1639 the town fell under the governance of France for nearly 60 years. Ludwig XIV expanded it with his master builders, Vauban and Tarade, to fortify the city against the Habsburg empire. In 1697 during the peace of Rijswijck he had to return Breisach to the Holy Roman Empire.

A gateway to the "Old Town"

To replace the lost of 'old' Breisach France built the 'fort asterisk', Neuf Brisach which exists to today on the opposite site of the Rhine.

In 1790, Breisach was part of Further Austria. In the revolutionary wars in 1793, Breisach was widely destroyed and then, in 1805, annexed to the de facto re-established state of Baden.

In the 19th century during the rebuilding of Breisach the centre of the town shifted from the Cathedral hill to the lower town. After the end of World War I. the boom stagnated.

Looking through the gateway into the "Old Town"

During the Nazi regime the over 700 years old Jewish community of Breisach experienced massive prosecution and even annihilation. In 1938 the synagogue was destroyed and in 1940 the last remaining Jewish citizens were deported to camp Gurs (Southern France). Only few survived the fright of force exile, deportation and extermination camp.

A Modern Gateway

Resulting from the ruth experiences of its alternating history and in the awareness of a necessary peaceful cohabit of several nations and cultures, 96% of the voters in Breisach elected -first in Europe- on the 9th of Juli 1950 in a ballot for a united and free Europe, base of the honorary title 'European town'.

Münster St. Stephan

St. Stephan's cathedral of Breisach, is situated on top of the cathedral hill. The town's landmark overlooks the houses of the old town and the Rhine lowlands. Its two towers guide the visitor the to an interesting building, where he/she discovers numerous treasures and outstanding artworks. Roman and gothic elements can be found in the cathedral, which has presumably been build from the end of the 12th century on to the end of the 15th century.

St. Stephan's Cathedral on the Vulkanberg

The Catherdral in B&W

St. Stephan's Catherdral

The rich collection of art treasures inside the cathedral includes "The Last Judgment" by Martin Schongauer. The artist originally hailed from the neighboring town of Colmar and worked on this masterpiece from 1488 until his death on February 2, 1491. Although time, destruction, and a poor restoration attempt in 1931 have eradicated many of the details of the composition, the magnificent impression it makes on the viewer remains unbroken. On the west wall, Christ is shown seated on a rainbow throne as the judge of the world. The lily, a symbol of mercy, and the sword symbolize the judge's decision. Speech banners make reference to the judgment - hopeful expectancy on the one side and deep despair on the other. The mural continues on the north wall with its depiction of Hell. A sea of flames with horrifying figures represents the tortures of the damned. The atmosphere on the south wall, with a depiction of the saved souls entering Paradise, is joyful and relaxed by comparison. Angels accompany the group, which unites members of all classes, to the gates of Heaven, where a large tablet describes heavenly pleasures.

The medieval painting from Martin Schongauer -1491 (click on photo)

The high altar was created from 1523 - 1526 by Master H.L. (Hans Loi), the same artist who made the altar in the Michaeliskirche in Niederrotweil. The center shrine shows an astonishingly lifelike depiction of the crowning of Mary. God the Father and Christ hold a crown, beautifully decorated with blossoms and angels playing music, high over Mary's head. The Holy Ghost is symbolized by a dove hovering above the crown. On the left side panel, we see the church patron Stephanus, with the stones on the book in his left hand reminding us of his martyrdom, and St. Laurentius standing next to him. The right panel is dedicated to the city patron saints Protasius and Gervasius. The altar rests on a predella with a representation of the four evangelists.

A decorative top piece attributed to a student of Hans Loi, also skillfully carved, reaches up to the ribs of the vault. In the center sits Anna Selbdritt, with Vitalis and Valeria, the parents of the city's patron saints, at her sides. They are framed by angels playing music, and the suffering Jesus looms over everyone.

The high alter from Master HL

In the Crypt on the east side of the church, the artist Helmut Lutz from Breisach created the so called "Dornenkranz" in memory of the city's suffering.

Christ on the cross

The Dornenkranz

The Gothic style ceiling of the Crypt

Kaiserstuhl

View of the Kaiserstuhl from Breisach

The Kaiserstuhl(emperor's chair) is also located only a few kilometres from Breisach. Originated from vulcanic soil the Kaiserstuhl offers an ideal climatic and geological foundation for growing wine. The Kaiserstuhl is the warmest and most sunny area not only in Baden, but in the whole of Germany.

Every year at the end of August, there is the Breisach Wine Festival. One can sample the local wine on the banks of the Rhine.

An old grape press

Winegrowing was cultivated by the Romans. Nowadays, there are over 4000 hectars of vineyards in the area. Wine from the Kaiserstühl, especially its pinot gris and pinot noir has reached a leading position in Germany.